TAIWAN:
THE FAMILY NEXT DOOR
How and why this island has never
been a part of Communist China, and barely ever a part of China at
all
by Rip Rense
(Sept. 1, 2022)
President Dwight D. Eisenhower visits Taipei, Taiwan, in
1960. The U.S. and Taiwan have a long, steadfast alliance.
Eisenhower was the first U.S. president to make clear hat
the U.S.
would defend Taiwan against an attack from China. |
There is a great family in the house
next door.
You don’t know them well, but you always wave and exchange good
will. The family minds its own business, the children don’t swear or
smoke crack or play “gangsta rap.” They’re good kids, and it’s a
good, tight-knit family, always friendly, always hospitable to
everyone. Donates time, energy, money to all sorts of things, from
children’s cancer wards to tutoring to helping stray animals. And
everyone works extremely hard, to boot. Heroically hard, in fact.
Oh, and the family next door invented magic lightbulbs that never go out, and
has sold them cheaply to everyone in the neighborhood! As a result,
the family is an essential part of neighborhood economy, much
respected.
The problem is this other family.
It lives right next door to the good family, in a grotesque McMansion.
The family members are unfriendly,
arrogant, hostile. They have nothing to do with neighbors, leave
massive amounts of trash everywhere, threaten anyone they dislike,
and openly fart and belch, just to be annoying. They also lie so
much that they have forgotten truth, if they ever knew it in the
first place.
And they are, of course, insanely jealous of family number one---so much so,
that they have threatened to kill that family and take their house
from them.
Huh? Why?
Well, family number two claims that because it is related to the
original builders of the neighborhood, it therefore owns all
the houses in it---and may evict or kill any occupants it chooses.
Of course, family number one is also related to the original
builders, but that doesn’t matter.
For years---decades---family number two has sent out flyers,
mailers, appeared on television, hired skywriters, and posted
Internet disinformation denouncing family number one as ugly,
ungrateful, nasty, rude, with bad breath. They have condemned family
number one for refusing to peacefully turn over its house to family
number two, and when the rest of the neighborhood points out that
family number one is really nice, owns its own house, and has
invented magic lightbulbs that they all need and use, family number
two just threatens. . .
To wipe out the entire housing tract and everyone in it!
Craziest of all, family number two claims that family number one
used to be part of its own house---and rebelled
against it and ungratefully left. Never mind that this never
happened. Pure fiction.
This. . .
Is the Taiwan situation, folks.
No, I’m not being facile---this cartoonish analogy captures the
matter. Taiwan and China are only related by proximity and
circumstance. Repeat: only related by proximity and circumstance. They are,
and have always been, two distinct places. Taiwan is not, as per
relentless propaganda, a “renegade province of China,” and never has
been (more later). It certainly never, never (and also never) has
been part of communist China. Period.
SEE BELOW: GENERAL CHART COMPARING TAIWAN AND
CHINA |
Today, Taiwan happens to be a vivacious, bustling, civilized,
free democracy, a vital contributor to the world (microcircuits,
of which they produce, ahem, 92 percent, is their “magic lightbulb”).
It is also, according to most anyone who has spent time there, quite
possibly the warmest and most hospitable country on Earth.
Seriously. This is not hyperbole. There are rankings.
Internations’ annual poll named
Taiwan the most hospitable country in the world in 2021 (survey of
12,000 respondents representing 174 nationalities living in 186
different countries.) The travel website, Booking.com, ranked Taiwan the
3rd friendliest country in the world in 2019. And on and
on.
Yes, country. Of course Taiwan is a country. To say it is not
is either the result of brainwashing by Beijing, ignorance, or
cognition problems. It meets every conceivable functional definition
of “country:” has its own government, education system, economy,
culture, languages, borders, history, ethnicities, native peoples,
cuisine, art, music, literature, film, beer (a qualification
coined by the late Frank Zappa) etc. All are uniquely shaped and
characterized by Taiwan history, people and context. Here is a
little historical telescoping. . .
To say that China has any claim on Taiwan would make sense in a
Marx Brothers movie or Monty Python routine. The history of this
island is a crazy-quilt tale of occupation, migration, instability,
rebellion (and, at long last, stability.) It was variously visited
and claimed by: the Dutch (who named it Ilha Formosa, or “beautiful
island”), the Spanish, the French, the Qing Dynasty, Japan, the
Nationalist Chinese. Hell, at one time, it was its own kingdom: in
the 17th
century, Koxinga, a Ming Dynasty loyalist general who resisted the
Qing (Manchu) conquest of China, fled to Taiwan, kicked the Dutch
out, and established the Kingdom of Tungning! His descendants,
whoever they might be, have more of a historic claim on Taiwan than
modern China (which, again, has none at all.) But then, Koxinga was
half-Japanese, so there goes even tangential Chinese right of
heritage.
The only time in Taiwan’s history when it was technically a part of
China was during the Qing Dynasty, which annexed the
13,892-square-mile island in 1683, chiefly because it was busy
annexing everything it could. The Qing rulers---Manchus, who
differed in culture from the Han settlers making up most
Taiwan---invested as much time and energy into ruling Taiwan as
Madonna invests in humility. Okay, a little more than that. Up until
1895, when the Qings simply gave Taiwan to Japan to settle the
First
Sino-Japanese War, they had
only managed to exercise a little control over Taiwan’s coastal
areas---never beyond. The locals rebelled and rioted so often that
there was an expression for Qing rule of the island that translated
to “every three years an uprising, every five a rebellion.”
And who were these “locals?” Well, for the most part, they were
the people from whom are descended about 70 percent of modern
Taiwan’s population: immigrants from the coastal China province of
Fujian (196 miles away) who arrived over roughly a 200-year period
in the 17th and 18th
centuries. These people have their own dialect, so-called Taiwanese
(Hokkien), and are, for the most part, the architects of the modern
Taiwan independence movement. The rest of today’s Taiwan population
are
Hakka (“guest people”)---a much-loved nomadic mainland clan
whose immigration paralleled the Fujian group---and descendants of
those who arrived with Chiang Kai-Shek and the Nationalists in 1949
(waishengren), plus various indigenous peoples.
See anything in that history about Taiwan being a “renegade
province?” No, me neither. See anything indicating that Taiwan’s
affairs are part of communist China’s “internal affairs,” as per the
constant obnoxious claim? No, me, neither.
So what is the real problem in this
massive Chinese puzzle? Why the relentless crowing from Beijing?
Why the lying, propaganda, hatred? Well, it's as simple as
Taiwan history is not: Xi Jinping. |
As for the ignorant notion that because Mandarin is the principal
language of China and Taiwan, and therefore they are part of the same
country, well, you might as well ask, “Is the USA British?” It comes
from British culture, utilizes English as a principal language. As does
Canada. As does Australia. As does New Zealand. Are these countries
British? Half the population of the San Gabriel Valley in Los
Angeles is Chinese. Is it therefore part of China? Seventy percent of
L.A.'s Chinatown is Chinese. Is it a "renegade province?"
If you want to get down to cases, Taiwan was actually never a
province of China at all, exclamation point, only formally
designated a
co-province with Fujian in 1887---eight years before the Qings ceded
the island to Japan! That’s correct: the only time in history that
Taiwan came anywhere near being a province of China, let alone a
“renegade” one, was for eight years under the Qing---who could never
control the place, anyhow, and didn’t try very hard to do so. They
fobbed that job off on Japan. (And if you want to get really wonkish,
some pro-Qing Taiwan officials declared the island the "Republic of
Formosa" at the last minute, just to stave off Japanese rule---so one
could argue that the place was formally independent of China in 1895!)
Japan, for its part, tried to turn Taiwan into Japan Jr., more or less,
over nearly fifty years---at one time outlawing any language other than
Japanese, and imposing comprehensive, organized rule of the place for
the first time its history. The occupiers were brutal, yes, but also
built a great deal of infrastructure, including a north-south railroad,
sanitation system, an excellent education system. (Plus, in a real move
to modernity, headhunting was outlawed.) Still, ever-feisty locals
resisted, and continued pesky, often bloody, uprisings.
This ended with terms of Japan's World War II surrender, when it turned
official governance
of Taiwan over to Chiang Kai-Shek and the Nationalist Chinese
(Kuomintang, or KMT) in September, 1945. When Chiang was finally
defeated by Mao Tse-Tung in the
China Civil War in 1949, he and his armies retreated to the island,
declaring it Taiwan, Republic of China---preserving the last vestiges of
the great statesman/philosopher
Sun Yat-Sen’s
dream of a free China. Yet Japan had left such an imprint that is fair
to argue, if you want to take seriously communist China’s absurd
territorial claim on Taiwan, that Japan has a more legitimate right
to the place.
With Chiang came about two million KMT soldiers, government and business
elites, as well as much of China’s gold reserves, and the bulk of its
national art/historical treasures. (These items, long housed in the
National Museum in Taipei, remain the most extensive and important
historical artifacts of China history.) The Chiang/KMT rule was marked by
strict martial law and, yet again, horrific persecution of resistors. An
estimated 140,000 Taiwanese deemed anti-KMT or pro-communist were
tortured, imprisoned without trial, executed, or “disappeared” during
what came to be called the “White Terror" period, which lasted
until the repeal of martial law in 1987.
While Chiang’s ROC---always a staunch U.S. ally---remained
autocratic and repressive through the ‘60’s and ‘70’s, Taiwan's economy flourished,
with the government prioritizing industrialization and technological
advance. This phenomenon, dubbed the Taiwan Miracle, led to the
island becoming the second-fastest growing economy in Asia, trailing
Japan, during the 1970’s. This economic boom was accompanied by a
gradual loosening of martial law restrictions under President
Chiang
Ching-kuo, Chiang Kai-shek's more liberal son and successor (1978 to
’88) who helped start Taiwan in the direction of democracy. (By the
‘80’s, no visitor to the country would have suspected there was martial
law, so effervescent and apparently free was the society.)
Speaker Nancy Pelosi meets President Tsai Ing-wen in
Taipei Aug. 3, 2022. Tsai called Pelosi "Taiwan's most
devoted friend." (Background painting: Republic of China
founder Sun Yat-sen.) |
It was CCK, as he was popularly known, who imbued legitimacy and
political power on the pro-independence so-called "native Taiwanese,"
culminating with his tapping Taiwan-born Lee Teng-hui (once a second
lieutenant in the Taiwan Japanese Imperial Army!) to be his
vice-president in 1984. The Democratic Progressive Party---the first
opposition party to the KMT, was allowed to form in 1986, leading to the
fully democratic society of today. CCK formally cancelled martial law in
1987.
Tortured history? Emphatically. “Renegade province?” As much evidence
that ducks have fur.
If you really want to talk about “renegade provinces,” how about the 13
or 14 that actually rebelled against the Qings in 1911-12, to form the
ROC under Sun Yat-Sen? Of course, they are all under totalitarian
communist Chinese rule now, which China has fiendishly extended to Hong
Kong, breaking a pledge to allow Hong Kong its freedom and
governance---something it now is threatening to repeat with free,
democratic Taiwan.
But what of the ambiguous “one China, two systems,” a
co-existence concept
dreamed up by Mao’s comparatively progressive successor, Deng Xiaoping,
in the late ‘70’s? This idea was a part of Deng’s overall attempted repair of the
catastrophic damage done to China by Mao's
Cultural
Revolution, and “communism” that has manifested as little more than
despotism, corruption, chaos. Deng famously “opened up” China to the
world, with educational, economic, diplomatic, political reform (called
“Boluan Fanzheng" or “eliminating chaos, returning to order”). Part of
this liberalization was the idea that a more capitalistic China might
eventually have so much in common with Hong Kong, Macau, and Taiwan,
that there would be no reason for military conflict. How sincere
or realistic this plan was remains debatable. (Chiang Ching-Kuo, or CCK,
laughingly called Deng’s proposal “one country, (we have) better
system.”)
Still, Deng’s “One Country, Two Systems” policy gave considerable hope
to the remaining cadre of ruling Kuomintang nationalists in Taiwan,
which translated into Taiwan’s government adopting a policy of appeasing China throughout the
‘80’s and into the ‘90’s. With the election of Chiang Ching-Kuo’s
vice-president, Lee Teng-Hui, as Taiwan president in 1988---the first
Taiwan-born president---and Deng’s brutal crackdown on burgeoning
democracy in the infamous
Tian An Men Square massacre, support for the “One Country, Two
Systems” concept faded. Lee had been quietly pro-independence, but his
successor,
Chen Shui-Bian
(2000-2008), became the first member of the Taiwan pro-independence
Democratic Progressive Party to be elected president---met with much
bluster and bellicosity from China. After Chen’s term ended in scandal,
corruption, and imprisonment, the vestiges of KMT returned to power with
Hong Kong-born
Ma Ying-Jeou
(2008-16) who adopted a controversial, Beijing-supplicating "Three No's"
policy: "not against unification, no independence, and no use of force."
This is, in short, line-in-the-sand time.
Nothing in recent history has more demanded it. China simply
needs to be called on its lies, and Taiwan needs to be
protected. |
The backlash against Ma's daring to suggest unifying Taiwan with
communist China led to the election of the DPP’s Taiwan-born,
western-educated
Tsai Ing-Wen in 2016. Under still-current President Tsai, Taiwan
made it formal policy to preserve its democracy and embrace de facto
independence, while still pursuing healthy, amiable relations with
China. Tsai was, and still is, backed overwhelmingly by Taiwan’s
populace---ever more so since Beijing’s sinister military provocations
following recent courageous visits to Taiwan by U.S. Speaker of the
House Nancy Pelosi, members of U.S. congress, and U.S. state officials.
So what is the real problem in this massive Chinese puzzle? Why the
relentless crowing from Beijing? Why the lying, propaganda, hatred?
Well, the answer is as simple as Taiwan history is not:
Xi Jinping.
This president of China---one should keep “president” in quotes, because
he is an authoritarian despot now engineering power for life, like
Russian “president” Vladimir Putin---simply will not accept Taiwan’s
right to remain---remain---a vibrant, bustling, progressive,
independent, happy republic. Why?
Many in the U.S. reasonably assume that Xi’s motive must be financial,
especially seeing as Taiwan produces effectively all the world’s
microchips. But no. With billions of dollars having long been mutually,
enthusiastically invested between the two countries since the end of KMT-imposed
martial law in Taiwan in 1987, the idea is not convincing. Of course,
there is strategic value: control of the microchip industry for purposes
of blackmailing the world. Given the U.S. and much of Europe's open
declaration of support for Taiwan, militarily and otherwise, the
likelihood of invading for microchips seems remote.
It really comes down to this:
Taiwan is an embarrassment to Xi and the brutes of Beijing.
Taiwan is a thorn in China's side for factors ranging from economic
to political to technological to sociological. Consider: under President
Tsai, Taiwan is hard at work on “green” progress, and is the only
country in Asia to have legalized gay marriage. (China, with India, has
contributed the infamous "Brown Cloud" of pollution that threatens the entire
world, rendering moot their recent upping of renewable energies---and Beijing
censors LGBTQ content from media and Internet.) More: Tsai's government plans
to eliminate its three nuclear power plants, and to generate 20% of its
energy from renewable energy by 2025. (While China leads the world in
solar and wind energy---not hard to do---it currently has a whopping 47
nuclear power plants, gasp, with plans for 150 more in the next 15
years. It also creates
27 percent of the world's total global greenhouse gas emissions,
with about 10,065 million tons of CO2 compared with the U.S. releasing
about half that amount.)
Taiwan has passed radical laws to protect and celebrate its sixteen
indigenous peoples. (Oppression of Tibet aside, China has recently
subjected
about a million Uighur Muslims to torture, rape, “re-education,”
murder.) Taiwan, long deficient in animal rights, has made enormous
progress in passing laws to protect animals. (China, primarily
responsible for the near extinction of elephants for their ivory, still
overwhelmingly leads the world in illegal animal trafficking---largely
for decoration, clothing, and "medicine.") As mentioned above, Taiwan is
a bastion of traditional Confucianism, an attitude an philosophy
grounded in notions of mutual respect, kindness toward others, filial
piety (respect for family and elders) hard work---ideals largely
destroyed during Mao’s “Cultural Revolution.” (Xi has, to his credit,
promoted Confucianism in China, though it is
fiendishly exploited as a tool to stoke nationalism, i.e. blindly
following leaders/elders out of respect.) Taiwan is famous for offering
financial aid (despite its limited budget), doing charitable work,
wherever it might be needed, the world over. The extraordinary
charitable organization, Tzu Chi, was founded in Taiwan (by Buddhist nun
Cheng Yen) and has done incalculable good in rendering global
humanitarian aid---including China!---since 1966. (While China spent
about $4 billion on foreign aid in 2016---compared with $38 billion from
the U.S. in 2021, that "aid" is always in the form of
influence-buying and
peddling, de facto bribery built of loan defaults enabling China to
take over infrastructure and buy influence, notably in Africa.) One must
cite Taiwan’s superb containment of the COVID scourge introduced to the
world by China, which is still struggling to control it (with millions
probably dead.) While Taiwan’s
economy is thriving, China’s COVID-ravaged society is in serious
trouble. Finally, Taiwan is, and this cannot be said enough, a free
country, and China is not. (China is formally known as
the "people's
democratic dictatorship," as its constitution states.) There
is, of course, much more that could be said, but let these
contrasts suffice.
In other words, Xi and the communists are motivated by hubris, envy,
pomposity, even simple irritation---with something out of the Adolf
Hitler playbook thrown in: that is, if your country is in economic
disarray, the convenient remedy is to demonize a group, a people, a
country, in order to unite the populace with unthinking nationalism. In recent months, China
banks have frozen accounts of the hard-working people who trusted them,
prompting working class and poor in many cities to
take to the streets, demanding their money. The government response?
Typical Beijing: beat the hell out of them. Is it any wonder that
Xi---especially after the brief, innocuous visit of Pelosi---increased
the threats to “take back” Taiwan, ordering huge, truculent military
“exercises” that amounted to a trial blockade? Taiwan is Xi’s boogie
man.
The point:
With the world now going more and more fascist---Italy has installed a fascist president---and dictatorships from Russia to China to North
Korea becoming more and more emboldened by social and politically
disarray in the United States (thank you, Donald Trump), it has never,
at least since WWII, been more vital to protect democracies.
If the free countries of the world do not openly, flagrantly unite to
protect the stellar, noble, independent democracy of Taiwan, the
west might as well throw in the towel on opposing fascism anywhere. This
is, in short, line-in-the-sand time. Nothing in recent history has more
demanded it. China simply needs to be called on its lies, and noble Taiwan
needs to be protected.
Otherwise, if Beijing makes good on its threat, it seems certain
that this would result in a cataclysmic conflict comparable to what is
happening in Ukraine. If Xi and his megalomaniacal cadre were to
actually wind up taking charge of the island, you can count on mass
incarceration and murder of resistors, huge numbers of Taiwan's 23
million citizens sent to China’s “psychiatric prisons,” where they would
be tied to beds, subjected to electric shock therapy, brainwashing,
drugs, general torture. (There are tens of thousands such facilities in
China, according to
Safeguard Defenders---convenient ways to avoid the criminal justice
system procedure with “civil commitment.”) Or worse, Taiwan citizens would be sent
to concentration camps, as has happened to the poor Uighurs. The seizure
of Taiwan would also, need it be noted, be cataclysmic for Asian
political and economic stability, beginning with Japan, which already faces more than enough
threat from North Korea and Russia.
Finally, the Taiwan population, if I am any judge of the country, and history
is any indicator, would never stop rebelling and rising up, no matter
the consequences. Note, for example, that the founder of Taiwan
chipmaker United Microelectronics Corp., Robert Tsao, recently donated NT$1
billion (US$32.79 million) to train a
3.3 million-strong militia in support of Taiwan's defense against a
China invasion. More such patriotic muscle is certain to come.
There is only one operative metaphor for a China invasion of Taiwan: the
murder of an innocent.
Which is to say, that great family in the house next door.
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|
RIPOSTE
by RIP RENSE |
|
TAIWAN, MY OTHER COUNTRY
(Sept. 22, 2022)
"Oh Shenandoah,
I long to see you,
Away, you rolling river.
Oh Shenandoah,
I long to see you,
Way, we're bound away
Across the wide Missouri."
Many years ago, I think it was 1987, I
attended a graduation concert by students in
the music department of Fu-Jen Catholic University in Taipei,
Taiwan.
I was expecting a charming presentation by extremely talented young
people, showcasing their various instruments, and I was not
disappointed in that.
But I was floored, stunned, by one particular performance that has
remained moving in memory, ever since: the graduate choir singing
the beloved traditional American folk song, “O Shenandoah.”
At first, I was slightly amused in an “ugly American” way by the
accent, but that vanished when I felt the sincerity accompanying the
vocal beauty on display. I have heard a lot---I mean a lot---of
music in my life, but I have never heard anything performed more
earnestly, with more heart, more love, than that rendition of “O
Shenandoah.” It left me with goose bumps, and in tears. I wondered
how young people who had certainly never been out of Taiwan could
invest this song with such reality, poignancy.
And that was one of my first clues about the essence of Taiwan’s
extraordinary spirit.
Taiwan is the smell of fresh-baked boroh pastries,
machine solvent, night market barbecue, temple incense, scooter
exhaust, heavy wet air. It’s 3 a.m. yowling cats galloping over
corrugated tin-roofed balconies, darting taxis blaring bad Chinese
pop, old men arguing over games of Go in tiny parks behind bus
stops, and off-key gongs and caterwauling singers in pop-up Chinese
opera street performances. It’s tired, overworked young students in
handsome school uniforms, and tired, overworked garage mechanics in
torn, grimy T-shirts, endlessly cheery waitresses and waiters
singing out, “Huan ying guan ling" (“we
are honored to have you”), heroically dedicated teachers,
brilliant nerd engineers, doting moms and dads with happy little
kids---all sitting around together on flimsy aluminum stools, having
doahua (tofu pudding) or yo tiao (long, fried donuts)
at street stands. Taiwan is a raucous machine shop next to a frilly
café named Alice in Wonderland next to a walk-in dentist next to a
baby supply store next to a morning produce market next to a 7-11.
It’s impersonal skyscrapers,
boba tea (which it invented!),
betel-nut juice stains in the streets, and frosty green-label
bottles of Taiwan beer in refrigerators, and garbage trucks that,
believe it or not, all play
“Für
Elise” by Beethoven. It’s New Year’s Eve bottle rockets and roaring
roosters in rustic villages, and giant lantern festivals in the big
cities. It’s scooter armies and jabbering pedestrian throngs and
whooshing monorails and tons of rain that fall hard and deafening.
It is serene mountain lakes and sunny tropical beaches and thick,
funky jungles and lyrical fields of tea, and moody, rocky shorelines
and wind making abstract music in forests of bamboo. It is happy and
sad and joyous and heartbroken and exalting and sentimental and
argumentative and deeply philosophical. A sunny day is called a
“shiny day” and children are called “little friends.”
In short, Taiwan is a real “you had to be there” kind of experience.
And I recommend that you make it one. At first glance of Taipei, you
might see only overpopulation and drab, gray, boxy apartment
high-rises. After a few months, you won’t see either---instead only
the invigorating, inspiring bustle. The charm of the place is in the
culture, not the cement. The closest term I know for the
infectiously madcap, almost naïvely impassioned atmosphere of Taiwan
is the Mandarin word, ren-ching-wei,
literally “people flavor spirit,” which connotes doing absolutely
everything---from welcoming strangers to arguing to painting kitten
faces to learning the piano to fixing bulldozers to tying
zong-zi (sticky rice in bamboo
leaves) to caring for those in need---with ardor, commitment,
elan. It might sound
tangential, but finding such western staples as irony and sarcasm in
Taiwan humor is not an easy proposition. There is profound
appreciation for life here.
How and why? Well, I don’t know if the Taiwan attitude is
rooted in
Confucianism, or just came to emulate it, but either way,
the term famously applies. Ethics, good behavior, civility, decency,
hard work, devotion to family, respect for elders—all Confucian
ideals---are as commonly found in Taiwan as they are not found in
today’s USA. If this sounds corny to you, I submit that, given time
in Taiwan, you would most likely start to admire these values, if
not try to adopt them. They are catching. It is quite moving to see
a society---even with all the grisly faults you would expect any
society to have---attempt to comport itself with such an empathetic
ideology, and such love of family.
Taiwan is also, I must mention, Music Land. I
do not exaggerate. People just exude do-re-mi. Put Taiwan
blood under a microscope, and the cells appear as musical
notes. |
I lived in Taiwan for well over a
year---six months in one particular stretch---and I think it’s fair to
say that I know enough of the place to make these comments. If you want
to get into the many fascinating particulars of the island---the
ridiculously varied geography, topsy-turvy history, all the permutations
of culture that vary from locale to locale (sometimes village to
village)---by all means read travel and/or history books. I’m here to
talk about the feel of the place, and how it stands alone, at least in
my experience. And, yes, how it is independent.
My former wife, a tremendous human being born and raised in
Taiwan, and the reason for my time there, used to occasionally remark:
“You know, Rip, Taiwan is a really special place. It’s like a secret
place the world doesn’t know about.”
At first, I took this comment with a grain or two of salt, chalking her
enthusiasm up to understandable pride. But I eventually came to
understand that she was right. It’s not easy to explain. You wind up
trapped in hyperbole, claim, assertion, superlative, to the point of
“protesting too much.” The sad fact that much of the world still does
not know much about Taiwan, even with the ongoing deranged threats from
China, does not help. (Please see
accompanying commentary.) I mean, often
as not, it’s Oh, you mean Thailand?
Here is one truth. I have not traveled extensively in Asia, but I did
spend a little time in Hong Kong (long before China took control, and
fiendishly broke its promise to allow for self-rule). If you are at all
curious about Taipei, or Taichung, or Tainan, or Kaoshiung---Taiwan’s
booming, effervescent cities---well, they have the feel of small towns,
in their warmth and ambience, compared to the New York complexity and
aggression of Hong Kong. To return to Taipei---even with all its
hyper-crowding and energy overdrive---after a week in Hong Kong
was to de-stress and be comfortable. Frenetic streets, terrible traffic and
cacophony notwithstanding.
I was lucky to travel all over the country: to the ethereal
mountain retreat of Hsi-Tou, the little beaches of tropical Kenting
in the south, the papaya and mango farms outside of Tainan, the white
ginger-scented jungles north of Taipei, the “rainy city” (now drought
city!) of Keelung on the northeast coast, the little Hakka (a nomadic
Chinese clan whose name translates to “guest people”) village of
Hsin-Pu
(now not so little), all the major cities. I studied Mandarin in Taipei
(enjoying the gusto of walking home each day through several miles of
heavy foot traffic, and elephant stampede commuters), gave a few
lectures about classical music with my then-wife (a professor of piano)
at suburban high schools, tutored students in grammar, pronunciation,
writing. I shoehorned my way regularly into various temples to worship
various deities, bowing three times with huge sticks of smoking incense
(bai bai); white-knuckled
through careening high-speed taxi rides, hiked up mountains (not so
daring as it sounds; I was in line with hundreds of others), drank
pu-erh tea at sunset in a
one-time Japanese mining village overlooking the ocean, picked seasonal
strawberries along with hordes of giddy kids, declined offers to drink
fresh snake blood for virility (which I hope no longer goes on), once
walked all over Taipei in a pounding rain,
sans umbrella, singing
along with earphone-pumped Beatle songs at the top of my lungs. (Talk
about nervous looks.)
The
idea of China attacking and occupying Taiwan---for strictly
hegemonic reasons disguised with sheer lies about the place
being a “renegade province”---is too horrific to
contemplate. |
Funny the things that stick in
memory. For some reason, I often think of one incredibly delicious cup
of coffee that put me in a quasi-ecstatic state, sitting with my wife
one afternoon in a dear little Taipei café. As we paused, simply
watching the crazy parade of machine and people outside, the din of
Mandarin washing over me, incomprehensible, the burnished wood interior
comforting, a light rain falling outside, I really thought there was no
better place in the world, ever. But that has more to do with me than
Taiwan. . .maybe.
You could say I got the cook’s tour of the island, but it was
much more intimate than that, because I was welcomed into my former
wife’s wonderful family---people who embodied ren-ching-wei
to the hilt. The brothers were rollicking, great guys---both
engineering geniuses---the sisters were sweet and a little scolding, and
it combined for an earthy family atmosphere that I had never
experienced. These were country folk, at heart, though all went on to
enormous success, studying in the U.S., and working in Taipei. My former
wife could look out the front window of her childhood home and see the
fields where she had, as a little girl, fallen asleep on the backs of
water buffalo on hot afternoons, courtesy of the local lady rice paddy
planters. My very tough
Hakka ex-mother-in-law, a widow early in life
who singlehandedly raised five children, had a long lineage in the
little hamlet of Hsin-Pu, and had spent about 45 years heroically
teaching grade school there. Her story was bound up in Taiwan history:
her husband was a fine water-colorist from China who came to the Taiwan
countryside to paint, fell in love, and was marooned when the Communists
took over China. He designed the family home with a roof emulating a
college graduate’s mortarboard, to instill the idea of scholarship in
his kids.
I have very fond and touching memories of spending several
Chinese New Years in Hsin-Pu, where different families set off strings
of firecrackers at pre-arranged moments alllllll
night long, as prescribed by fortune-tellers for the banishment of
bad luck. To the accompaniment of highly disturbed maniac roosters with
pipes to rival Pavarotti. There were toasts, homemade feasts of local
dishes, and endless pay-respect visits on New Year’s Day by neighbors,
former students of my mother-in-law, all part of heartfelt tradition.
(Hell, the whole country feels like one big family at New Year.)
There were evening bats that chased rocks you threw, thinking they were
prey; bottle rockets from rooftops popping over fields, long morning
walks through a tranquil valley of persimmon farms, then up the side of
a mountain several hundred steps to a freezing hillside temple, where a
troupe of shave-headed monks and nuns chanted O-mi-to-fo
(Amida Buddha, a deity/concept of Shin Buddhism). And there were trips
into the big temple in the nearby big city (well, medium) of Hsin-Chu, a
kind of riot of antic families in new clothes (for New Year), rain,
umbrellas, Chinese opera, the perpetually rising fingers of incense, a
jigsaw puzzle of hawker stalls purveying everything from the trademark
local dumpling to hot red bean soup and black sesame sweet rice balls (tang
yuan.)
Yes, of course, I experienced some very troubling moments and
aspects of the country, as one would anywhere. There can be suffocating
air pollution (thanks largely to China’s notorious
“brown cloud” of
particulate matter that periodically swoops in). I remember a woman in Hsin-Pu whose life and dreams of coming to the U.S. were ruined by a
date rape, pregnancy, and subsequent insanity. There was the time I
accidentally clipped a rear-view mirror on a car that happened to be
filled with punk gangsters. Suffice to say I lived. There was the
abysmal treatment of animals, and preponderance of sick, mangy cats and
dogs, and while that problem persists, there has been much improvement
since my time there (including legislation to protect animals, and the
advent of many animal welfare organizations.) One especially poignant
memory was when I took a few hours to trim and cut the matted fur of the
family guard dog who normally let only family approach him. He looked at
me with trust and gratitude as I cut clump after clump away, speaking to
him gently, then managing to bathe him in soapy water and brush his fine
coat out to a lustrous sheen. Ha-Lee---what
a good boy he was! Well, I seem to be off on another tangent here. . .
So why did I not remain in Taiwan, if I liked it so well? Stupidity,
really. I placed more importance on my so-called journalism career back
in this country, never mind that I was paid wretchedly, and too often
treated like used tissue by some truly awful, awful people masquerading
as editors. Despite what I unabashedly call the excellence of my work.
In the end, the strain simply proved too much for the marriage. Such,
sad to say, is life.
But to get back to that college graduation concert featuring
“O Shenandoah”. . .Taiwan is also, I must mention, Music Land. I do not
exaggerate. People just exude do-re-mi. Put Taiwan blood under a
microscope, and the cells appear as musical notes. Everybody, it seems,
knows how to sing on key, or whistle (really well!), and usually to play
instruments. I mentioned the Beethoven-broadcasting garbage trucks,
well, that’s just a hint. Cars backing up play “There’s No Place Like
Home” and “I Just Called to Say I Love You” (which, by the way,
delightfully dogged me all over the island, from café to bus to taxi to
7-11, on my first visit there, way back in 1986), and cafes pulse with
everything from opera to Sinatra to the late, beloved Taiwan songbird,
Teresa Teng. People might not know the name of a piece, or its composer,
but everyone seems to know such classic melodies as, for instance, the
heart-rending 7th movement of “Scenes
From Childhood,” by Robert Schumann. Hell, you hear the “Ode to Joy”
from Beethoven’s 9th coming out of machine shops. The
preponderance, the ubiquity of music---classical, jazz, and, yes, all
the latest western trends in terrible pop (sorry to say)---are a
phenomenon, nothing less. It seems that people in Taiwan simply can’t
live without music, mostly pretty good music, and I believe---as
countless studies, and many a philosopher and literary figure, from
Shakespeare to Nietzsche, allege---that this plays an enormous role in
the mental health, happiness, and
ren-ching-wei of the place. I
mean, every major city in this little 14,000-square mile land seems to
have a symphony orchestra and lavish performing arts center. In fact, a
visually arresting, downright
spectacular new center just opened in 2018
in the southern port city of Kaohsiung, complete with huge symphony hall
and opera house---built, ironically, by a Dutch company, a kind of
poetic continuation of the 17th
century Dutch occupation of parts of Taiwan. It was the Dutch, by
the way, who dubbed the place “Ilha Formosa,” or “beautiful island.”
It’s scooter armies and jabbering pedestrian
throngs and whooshing monorails and tons of rain that fall
hard and deafening. It is serene mountain lakes and sunny
tropical beaches and thick, funky jungles and lyrical fields
of tea, and moody, rocky shorelines and wind making abstract
music in forests of bamboo. |
And the ilha
is still just so formosa,
in every important respect, literally and figuratively. The idea of
China attacking and occupying Taiwan---for strictly hegemonic reasons
disguised with sheer lies about the place being a “renegade province” (see
accompanying article)---is too horrific to contemplate. To imagine
this shimmering, buoyant, thriving crazy-quilt of humanity subjugated by
the brutes of Beijing is just shattering. Taiwan not only is a de facto
self-contained society and country, with no history of ever
being part of Communist China (and little history of ever being
designated, against its will, part of ancient China), but it is just a
singular, vibrant, rambunctious place, drunk with freedom, relentlessly
productive, doggedly committed to democracy, human rights, and. . .the
best stuff of life.
See? I told you. I’m reduced to superlatives. Maybe it's best to say
that for many years now, whenever I hear the tender, poetic, wistful
words of that loving paean to that almost mythic, American river in
Virginia. . .
I think only of Taiwan.
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